A Comprehensive Guide for all those who wish to have beautiful and healthy hair.
1. It’s Easy to Have Great-Looking Hair
You have healthy hair when the thickness of your hair is even from the roots to the ends; it is shiny and lustrous and grows on a healthy scalp. There are certain basic requirements for healthy hair:
● A good and balanced diet that consists of the right amounts of proteins, vitamins, minerals, carbohydrates and fats. Your diet must include plenty of salads and fruits to supply essential fibres. The deficiency of minerals and vitamins causes unhealthy hair. Remember, whatever you eat is always reflected in the health of your hair.
● Drink plenty of water to eliminate the toxins in the body.
● Exercise regularly to improve blood circulation.
● Keep your hair scrupulously clean.
2. Proteins and Hair
The first sign of protein deficiency is the loss of hair colour. Later, your hair will begin to thin and break easily due to inadequate keratin formation. Protein-rich foods like lean meat, fish, seaweed, eggs, dry fruits, pulses, cottage cheese and yogurt should be an essential part of your diet. Whole-grain foods help sufficient keratin formation. Fruits are packed with fibre, vitamins and minerals.
3. Vitamins and Hair
Deficiency of vitamin A makes hair dull, dry and lifeless. An excess of vitamin A results in small bald patches appearing on the scalp. You should therefore include milk, radishes, carrots and green vegetables in your diet. Always aim to strike the right balance.
The deficiency of vitamin C results in corkscrew hair. You should ensure that you consume lemons, oranges or any other citrus fruit. Vitamin B helps make hair shiny and thick. Yeast tablet, cereals. milk, eggs, bananas, peanuts, pulses, liver of goat and chicken, and wheat germ and rich sources of this vitamin.
4. Fats and Hair
Cutting down on animal fats (butter, fatty meat and cream) helps the hair if it is excessively oily. Where possible, try to replace animal fats with vegetable oils. Avoid saturated fat, which is found in red meat, fried foods and dairy products. Choose skimmed or semi-skimmed milk and low-fat cheese and yogurt.
5. Causes of Unhealthy Hair
Besides general poor health and poor diet, some other common courses of unhealthy hair and hair loss are:
Wearing tight hats, bands or helmets for long hours.
● Tying up the hair often.
● Too much exposure to sun or harsh climatic conditions.
● Use of strong chemicals.
● Scratching the scalp with nails and fine combs.
6. To Cut or Not to Cut
The traditional ideal of Tibetan and Indian beauty are a woman with long, flowing tresses, However, such hair only looks good when it has fine texture and shine.
Long hair looks great because it frames the face in the most natural and flattering manner. But not everybody’s hair is suitable, for being left long. Even if your hair is suitable, it is essential to see how long it can reasonably be grown.
The hair length should never ever exceed the waistline, as too much weight will leave the hair with no volume and result in hair fall and a broad forehead.
7. The Perfect Cut
The haircut you choose must be in keeping with your facial features and the texture of your hair. It should complement your personality and enhance your appearance. It should bring out your unique and distinctive features, but it should not be so different that it stands out and looks odd.
A good hairstyle should be versatile. You should be able to adapt it for different occasions to look either casual or sophisticated, formal or informal with the help of minimal adjustments such as drying techniques. A perfect cut is all about making you look good and feel great.
8. Timing Your Haircut
The average person’s hair grows at the rate of half to three-quarters of an inch a month. Thus, you will need to get your hair cut once every four to six weeks to maintain a uniform length.
If you feel the need to visit the hairdresser more often, say once every two weeks, then you need to evaluate whether you’re getting the right haircut.
However, individuals may have different rates of hair growth.
9. Bracing up for a New Hairstyle
A hairstyle should be changed at least twice a year. And while you are at it, change that parting too, as this is where your hair undergoes the most tress. Not doing this often leads to a receding hairline. Besides giving you a new look, a new hairstyle contributes immensely to your self-confidence.
If you are thinking of a new style or cut, it often helps to take pictures of styles you like to your hairdresser. But it is important to be realistic about what will suit you and your lifestyle and be reasonably easy to maintain.
10. Things to Remember When Getting Your Hair Cut
Your hair cut should suit
● Your facial features. It should frame your face well, softening your features.
● Your height.
● Your weight.
● Your profession. For example, top executives, teachers, doctors etc. Cannot sport trendy and wacky hairstyles like college students. Since they don’t have enough time to spend on settings, they should go for a style that is practical and elegant and goes well with their overall.
● Your age.
11. The Perfect Parting
It is usually best to settle for a natural parting. It is difficult to create a lasting hairstyle when working against the natural parting.
If you want to find out where your natural parting is, follow this simple step: Comb your hair straight back from your forehead. Place your palm no the crown of your head and push your hair forwards gently. Your hair will rise up and part at the natural parting.
If you have a round face, avoid a centre parting, as it only serves to enhance the roundness. Instead, go for a side parting; this will lend softness to your face.
On the other hand, an oval-shaped face is great for any parting, whether it is on the side of the centre.
After a shampoo, comb your hair in the direction opposite to that in which the hair falls so that the parting does not become too prominent.
12. Figure out the Shape of Your Face and then Your Hairstyle
An ideal hairstyle should frame the face, and make you look soft and young. But in order to work out what kind of a hair cut would suit you, you need to first find out what shape your face is.
The easiest way to find out the shape of your face is to outline the reflection of your face in the mirror with lipstick. This will give you an accurate picture face-type.
13. The Square Face
A square face is one that is broad, has a straight hairline and a square jawline. The ideal hair length for this shape is medium rather than short.
The hair should lift off the forehead and come forward at the temples and jaw, giving the face a narrow and soft appearance. An asymmetrical hairstyle, too, works well on square faces.
Curls or waves falling on the face or swept to one side, look the best. Centre parting should be avoided as it highlights the symmetry of the face angles.
14. The Round Face
A round face is broad with rounded contours and full, plump cheeks. The best way to wear your hair if you have a round face is to have short layers on the front part to help lengthen the face and leave the sides short, with the ears exposed. A diagonal fringe will break up circular lines. Therefore, it is advisable to bring the hair on the sides forward onto the cheeks to cut their width. Curly styles should be avoided as they intensify roundness. If you wish to have a blunt cut, keep it short and inverted.
15. The Oblong Face
An oblong face is one that is long and thin, with a narrow forehead, cheekbones and jawline forming a long oval.
The hairstyle should make a pretty frame around the face. In long hair, perming or setting in gentle waves to the side is one answer. Short cuts are fine if accompanied by width. The crown should be rounded and not too high, the sides full and the ends flicked up.
A soft fringe can help to reduce forehead depth.
16. The Heart-Shaped Face
A heart-shaped face is one that has a wide forehead and a narrow chin.
Therefore, your hairstyle should be able a reduce the width of the forehead. You should have a centre parting with the bangs flipped up. On the other hand, a style slanted to one side also looks good as it adds width and softness to the jawline.
17. The Diamond-Shaped Face
In a diamond-shaped face, the cheekbones are very wide, the chin is pointed, and the forehead and jawline are narrow. The diamond-shaped face has harsh angular lines that appear to be more conspicuous in short haircuts. So short cuts, which normally look good on soft faces, should be avoided.
The hairstyle should have height and width at the top to balance the width of the cheeks. In general, try and avoid hairstyles that lift away from the cheeks or move back from the hairline.
18. Body Shape
A number of people tend to ignore body shapes when going in for a new hairstyle. For example, elfin styles should be avoided on a traditional pear-shaped body as such a hairstyle draws much attention towards the lower half of the body, making the hips appear even wider. Also, petite women should avoid masses of curly hair as they make the head appear larger as compared to the body.
19. Facial Features
If your features are thin then you could have the sides lifted up and swept away from the hairline, keeping the overall style soft and loose.
If your features are uneven, try any style that would draw attention away from the imperfect features. For example, if you have a wide forehead, you can try directing hair forward over the sides of the forehead. If you have a wide, flat nose, draw the hair away from the face and use a centre part to elongate and narrow the nose. To cover a long neck, keep the hair long and full at the nape.
20. Glasses
Glasses tend to give your face a ‘hard’ look; you should therefore choose a hairstyle that will lend some softness to your face. It should fall naturally around the face, making it easy for you to put on or take off your glasses.
Things to keep in mind if you wear glasses:
● The hairstyle should be attractive enough to draw attention away from glasses.
● Flicks or fringes are an absolute no-no.
● Over-styled hair with many tight curls is impractical.
Always show your glasses to your hairstylist before changing your hairstyle.
21. Get to Know Your Scalp Better
Your scalp can be dry, oily or normal. Irrespective of what scalp-type you may have, it is vitally important to keep it clean and healthy. A few tips to take care of your scalp:
● Massage your scalp regularly because it required all the stimulation it can get.
● Use a shampoo that is suitable for your scalp-type.
● Make sure that you follow the correct method of brushing your hair with the right brushes.
● Most importantly, eat a balanced diet, rich in fresh fruits and vegetables.
22. Normal Hair
Normal hair is the easiest to take care of and has enough elasticity to adapt well to a wide variety of hairstyles and lengths.
Normal hair:
● Has large waves.
● Is neither too curly nor too straight.
● Does not become oily or dry quickly.
● Is easily manageable.
Normal hair can be washed as often as required. If it happens to be slightly dry, a mild conditioner can be used.
23. Dry Hair
Dry hair is the most delicate type. Dull and dry hair can be due to poor action of sweat glands and even the weather.
Dry hair:
● Is usually wavy and curly.
● Is brittle and dull.
● Tends to have a number of split ends.
If you have dry hair, you will require a good conditioning treatment after every shampoo.
Also, you should avoid washing your hair more than once or twice a week.
24. Oily Hair
● Is usually straight and silky.
● Falls flat.
● Is prone to dandruff.
While oily hair appears clean and shiny, it requires more frequent shampooing than normal or dry hair.
25. Combination Hair
Combination hair is the type in which the scalp is oily and the hair is dry. Such type of hair lacks lustre and prone to dandruff.
The scalp being oily, combination hair requires frequent shampooing, followed by a conditioning treatment for the hair. A leave-in conditioner is required after the final rinse to restore moisture and shine.
26. Analysing Your Shampoo
The shampoo you use determines the condition of your hair.
Always use a shampoo that does not contain harsh chemicals and matches your hair type and hair texture. Many commercially available shampoos specify hair types.
Ideally, the shampoo you use should be able to remove dirt, oils and skin debris without adversely affecting either the scalp or the hair, or removing natural oils.
You should also choose your shampoo keeping in mind how often you wash your hair. If you wash it often, you should opt for a more gentle shampoo.
If you colour or perm your hair, use shampoos meant specially for colour-treated hair.
It is also advisable to keep switching shampoos so that your hair responds to various ingredients.
27. How Often Should You Shampoo?
How often you should shampoo depends on how quickly the scalp and hair become dirty and grimy. This depends on your lifestyle.
You would avoid shampooing daily as this can remove the natural oils your hair needs. If you have to, use a mild shampoo as possible.
If you have to shampoo your hair daily, make sure that you have an oil massage at least twice a week. Never apply oil before shampoo as it holds the dirt firmly and interferes with efficient cleaning.
You should always wash your hair with a shampoo meant for your particular hair type. Dry hair should be conditioned after every wash. A protein conditioner or a leave-in conditioner is ideal for dry hair. Normal hair can be washed as often as required, but daily wash must be avoided. A mild conditioner can be used when required. Oily hair must be shampooed at least thrice a week to remove excess oil. Conditioning must be avoided; if required, a conditioner specially prepared for oily hair with lemon in it can be used.
28. How to Shampoo
A number of people just slop shampoo onto their heads without paying attention to the correct way of applying it. But it is important to keep a few things in mind:
● Always ensure that your hair is tangle-free before shampooing. Before washing, brush your hair with your head upside down to remove dust and impurities.
● Always shampoo gently, using your fingertips to work up lather:
● Start lathering the scalp first, which is where grease accumulates, and then move to the ends, massaging gently.
● Do not pile your hair on top of your head; let it hang naturally. This enables the lather to work its way down from the roots to the ends.
● you have long hair, shampoo your scalp and then divide your hair into sections. Gently massage each section downwards, root to tip, between of your hands.
29. Washing out Shampoo
● Rinse your hair thoroughly with lukewarm water. Hot water dries both your scalp and hair. A shower is the best way of washing out the shampoo.
● Should any shampoo remain unwashed, it will cause dryness of the scalp. Don’t rub your hair while rinsing. Wet hair is very fragile. Let the water flow through.
● After a shampoo, leave your hair loose for a while until it is completely dry, as excess sweat or moisture can damage it.
● Give your hair a final rinse with cold water to stimulate blood circulation and to close the pores.
● Take into account the type of water you are using. If salty, mix one or two pinches of washing soda (sodium carbonate) to the bucket. This will soften the water which would otherwise leave a dulling deposit on the hair.
30. Reetha and Amla
Reeth (soapnut) and shikakai form the best natural therapeutic cleaning base for herbal shampoos, which cleans gently without adversely affecting the scalp and hair.
Reetha is best for oily hair as it courses excessive dryness. But the dryness can be countered by mixing with amla (gooseberry), making it suitable for dry hair.
Both these herbs are far superior in their cleansing properties as compared to the synthetic-based shampoos.
Amal has darkening properties, which provide superb gloss and colour to Ashwin's hair. Being the main ingredient of natural herbal oils, it also imparts shine to dry and lustreless hair.
31. Hair Conditioning
1, Everyday activities such as drying, rough brushing, incorrect combing and styling damage your hair, harsh sunlight and pollution too take their toll. It is important to prevent damage by protecting your hair. Conditioners can provide this protection.
2, A conditioner is used after shampoo. It is to hair what moisturizers are to the skin. A specially formulated group of conditioners contains chemicals like lanolin, olive oil, cholesterol and lecithin. There are able to penetrate the cortex, give it strength and resilience, and bring the hair back to its normal state.
3, The surface of each hair is constituted of overlapping cuticles. The smooth overlapping arrangement of these cuticles is disturbed by brushing and combing. Conditioners flatten the cuticles and lubricate their edges, thus protecting your hair and making it more manageable and lustrous.
Conditioning softens your hair, adds lustre and makes it more manageable and easier to comb. It provides the hair with high tensile strength and sufficient elasticity to take a good cohesive set.
32. Conditioning Different Hair Types
Conditioning should be selected according to your need. There are various kinds of conditioners available in the market for dry hair, exceptionally curly hair and chemically-treated hair. Keep your specific requirement in mind when choosing a conditioner.
Dry, wavy, curly, chemically-treated or damaged hair requires intensive conditioning. Normal hair also requires conditioning, though less intensive.
As harsh sunlight and excessive use of chemicals harm oily hair, it also requires conditioning. Most conditioners today are oil-free and therefore washing out is easy. Try natural rinses like beer, yogurt and tea extract for giving that extra shine to dry hair.
33. How to Apply Conditioners
● Dry your hair briskly with a towel before applying conditioner so that the excess moisture is removed.
● Take a blob of the conditioner into your palm and rub both palms together. Keeping your flat, massage it into your hair. Never apply conditioner on the scalp as it makes the hair shaft leaving the roots and worked down to the ends. If you have thick hair, take small sections of your hair and rub your fingers through.
● If you have long hair, gently ‘comb’ the conditioner through the length of your hair with your fingertips. Pay special attention to the most damaged areas, which are usually the ends. Otherwise, it is the area closed to the scalp that is the most important.
● Always finish conditioning by combing hair through with a wide-toothed comb. Besides gently loosening tangles, it ensures that the conditioner is evenly applied right to the tips.
● For best results, leave the conditioner on for at least two minutes.
● Rinse thoroughly in running water. When rinsing, do not rub your hair because wet hair is very fragile. Ensure that no conditioner is left behind in your hair after rinsing.
● Give your hair a final rinse with cold water.
● If you have fine hair, be careful not to apply too much conditioner as this may lead to loss of natural bounce and volume.
34. Oil Massage
Massage increases the blood flow to the hair follicles and beneath the scalp, thus helping the growth of healthy hair. It also makes you feel extremely relaxed.
Many people believe that the amount of oil used is directly linked to hair growth. Nothing could be farther from the truth! It is the massage that helps increase hair growth and not oil.
Massage is especially beneficial if you have dry hair as it increases blood circulation and produces a natural oil. If you have oily hair, do not use too much oil for massaging as there is enough natural oil.
35. How to Make the Most of Your Massage
● It is best to use natural oils such as coconut, almond, mustard, olive or castor oil.
● The oil should always be lukewarm, which enables it to enter the pores easily.
● Add one vitamin E capsule to the oil and massage the scalp.
● The oil should be applied with the help of a cotton pad.
● Massage should be done with fingertips only.
● Avoid vigorous massage after oiling as this can cause weak and brittle hair to fall.
● Oil interferes with adequate cleaning; therefore avoid a massage before shampooing.
36. How to Choose Your Hairbrush and Comb
Wide-toothed combs are ideal for untangling wet or brittle hair. Nylon bristles are smooth and recommended for hairstyling. The size of the staying brush is determined by the style and length of the hair. As a general rule, short hair is styled with a small diameter or vent brush. For long hair, use large diameter or vent brushes.
The best brushes are those that have either natural bristles or a mixture or natural and nylon bristles. Generally, wooden brushes with natural bristles are easier on the hair and also provide a gentle massage for the scalp and a smooth finish for the hair shaft. Rubber-base brushes with dense, durable bristles are also good as the base flexes and there is less pulling and strain at the roots.
The shape of your brush is also important. It should suit your hair texture. For fine or medium hair, use soft plastic brushes with knobs at the bristle ends; a flat paddle shape or a radial shape is good. Use a semi-radial shape, with a half-moon of bristles, for coarse hair.
37. Caring for Your Hairbrush and Comb
● Replace brushes and combs with damaged bristles or broken teeth. The sharp edges can damage your scalp.
● Try and avoid letting other people use your brushes, combs, towel and pillow.
● Make sure that the brushes your use are cleaned, at least once a week, by pulling out dead hairs and washing them in soap and water, and rinsing thoroughly.
● If you use a pneumatic brush with a rubber cushion base, block the air hole with a matchstick before washing.
38. How to Brush Your Hair
● The correct way to comb your hair is to start from the tip, easing the tangles gently and working back along the hair shaft to the scalp. If you start from the scalp, you will only be pushing the tangles lower down the shaft to create knots near the tips.
● Take your time and don’t tag carelessly as this will damage your hair.
● The belief that one should brush one’s hair a hundred strokes a day is not true. Excessive and vigorous brushing can damage the cuticles, and even cause the hair to break. Excessive brushing also makes oily hair more oily and dry hair more brittle.
● If you have long hair, don’t comb straight from the root to the tip; that way you’ll be forcing tangles one on top of the other. Instead, comb the bottom third of your hair. When this is tangle-free, comb from root to tip. This method should be used when the hair is wet, dry or during conditioning.
39. Drying Your Hair
After washing your hair, pat or squeeze it dry with a towel. Do not rub it vigorously as too much friction causes tangling and even breakage.
If you have long hair, it is good to wrap a towel around it to facilitate drying. This leads to gentle absorption of moisture without friction. However, do not twist the towel as it leads to hair breakage. Before wrapping your hair, comb it with your fingers or with a wide-toothed comb while it is still very wet. This helps to remove tangles so that there will be no painful knots when you take the towel off.
If you use a hairdryer, always pat or squeeze your hair dry first. The best way to dry hair is to leave it open and let it dry naturally. Nevertheless, before drying, brush your hair thoroughly with a wide-toothed comb. You should never use a fine-toothed comb at this time as it twists the hair in its weakened condition and may stretch it to breaking point. If your hair is damaged then it is best to finger-comb it before drying. Finger-combing is also good to enhance the waves in short, curly hair.
40. Blow-Drying
Ideally, blow-drying should be done only when absolutely necessary. It should not be done too often as it makes the hair brittle, leading to split ends. However, the constraints of our lifestyles often make it very convenient.
A good haircut helps to avoid blow-drying your hair since it does not require a long, laborious setting.
If you have chemically- treated or damaged hair which has lost its elasticity, it is best to avoid blow-drying. However, if you still choose to blow-dry it, you will need to take extra care in order to avoid irreversible damage.
41. How to Blow-Dry
● The dryer should be held 4 to 5 inches (10 to 15cm) away from hair to prevent overheating and overdrying.
● Angle the Dryer so that the air flows down the length of the hair shaft, from the roots to the ends. This encourages the cuticles to lie flat, smooths the edges and makes the hair shine. It also prevents frizz, breakage and split ends.
● To avoid overdrying and overheating of one spot, keep the nozzle to the dryer moving constantly.
● For extra volume or lift, blow-dry your hair in the direction opposite to the way in which you want in to fall.
● Use the highest heat setting only to remove excess moisture. Then switch to medium to finish drying. Switch to low speed for more controlled styling and finishing.
● Use styling lotions with thermal protection before blow-drying to protect your hair.
● Attach a diffuser to the dryer at low heat to control frizziness when drying curly hair.
42. Split Ends
Many people believe that spilt ends retard hair growth. This is not true. Hair grows only at the proximal end ( hair root) and not at the distal end (hair tip). Therefore, split ends do not in any stunt hair growth.
Split ends may be caused by many things, such as
● Continuous use of wrong hairbrushes.
● Brushing your hair incorrectly.
● Too much use of chemicals.
● Careless use of rollers and hairpins.
● Excessive heat styling.
Unattended cuticle damage will inevitably increase over time and result in split ends. Since prevention is better than cure you should use conditioners regularly so that your hair will never reach this level of damage.
43. Tacking Split Ends
There is no effective treatment for split ends except going for a timely trim.
However, sometimes even trimming does not solve the problem as hair break at midlength. In this care, apply the serum after every wash and before untangling hair.
Applying oil or a moisturizer can conceal the structural defect or give temporary relief if your hair is not adequately conditioned.
Often split ends are your body’s signal that your hair has grown beyond its optimum length and should not be kept so long.
The only permanent solution lies in
● Eating a more nutritious diet.
● Brushing your hair correctly. Avoid using a nylon brush as its sharp bristles could damage the hair. Use natural-bristle brushes with widely spread bristles.
44. Dandruff
Dandruff is a condition characterized by excessive flaking and scaling of the scalp. Contrary to common belief, it is neither a disease nor does it lead to hair loss.
When you have dandruff, cell growth in the epidermis, the outermost layer of skin, is disorderly and often the lifecycle of the cell is not completed before it leaves the scalp. Unlike a healthy scalp where a discarded cell flake is only a few layers thick and therefore unnoticeable if you have dandruff, the flakes are much larger and easily noticed. This is due to two reasons: one, the disorderly cell growth prevents the cells from separating easily, and two, the sebum (hair oil) secretions ara more sticky and bind the cells into large scales, twenty to forty layer thick.
What causes dandruff is not fully known. It is, however, established that it is not a contagious condition. The most widely accepted theory is simply that the microbes that live in the scalp cause dandruff to appear in some people and not in others. Other probable factors are poor diet, sluggish metabolism, stress, hormonal imbalance or infection of some kind.
45. Dandruff-Like Ailments
There are certain scalp problems that are more severe than dandruff, though superficially they might seem to be dandruff. These are:
Seborrhoea: This is a disorder of the sebaceous or oil-secreting glands. This can be of two kinds. The glands may produce too much oil, resulting in a very greasy scalp. Alternatively, they may produce too little oil, which causes a dry, itchy scalp. Although more serious than dandruff, simple seborrhoea is more annoying than dangerous.
Seborrhoeic dermatitis: This is a severe form of seborrhoea. In extreme cases, this can lead to hair loss. Unlike dandruff, where there are only flakes forming and falling off, if you have seborrhoeic dermatitis, the scalp gets inflamed as well.
Psoriasis: This is a chronic inflammatory skin disease in which reddish patches, covered with large, dry scales, appear on the scalp. When these scales are removed or fall off, the underlying tissue is exposed, sometimes accompanied by bleeding.
If you think you are suffering from any of these disorders you should consult a doctor.
46. Deterring Dandruff
While dandruff is an annoying problem, it is actually quite simple to deal with.
There are many anti-dandruff products, especially shampoos, available in the market, which easily solve all but the most persistent cases. Most of these products try to clear dandruff by controlling the growth of microorganisms on the surface of the scalp. If used regularly, anti-dandruff shampoos do an excellent job of helping reduce dandruff problems as well as cleaning and conditioning your hair.
An oil massage twice a week can often help overcome the problem. As dandruff often accumulates on an oily scalp, add ginger and lemon juice to the oil and then massage the scalp. Neem oil mixed with lemon is an effective home remedy for dandruff. It lessens the itching and grime caused due to excess oil lubrication. Henna also prevents extra lubrication of oil and thus reduces dandruff.
If you shampoo your hair too frequently or if the shampoo is not rinsed out thoroughly, this can lead to dryness, itching or a minor rash. In this case, you should cut down on the frequency of shampooing your hair.
47. Hair Loss and Baldness
Losing hair is always traumatic. However, there are some forms which should be less traumatic than others. Hair loss due to seasonal changes, illness or stress should be less traumatic as it is temporary.
Baldness is a common problem for many men. This is largely hereditary and nothing can be done to prevent it.
Hair loss may occur due to a number of reasons. Some of them may be temporary. Many people lose hair at certain times during the year when the season changes. Or if you change your place of residence, there may be hair loss for a while before your hair adjusts to a different kind of water. Hair loss may also occur after an illness and during periods of stress at home or work. There is little which can be done about hair loss due to any of these reasons. You can only take good care of your hair, eat well, and hope it will pass.
48. Preventable Hair Loss
However, hair loss may also occur for reasons where it is possible to do something about it. If you are losing hair and cannot attribute any reason to it, check to see that you are not doing any of the following:
● Tring your hair tightly for prolonged periods.
● Using pins and hairbands excessively.
● Wearing helmets, tight caps or turbans for long periods.
● Using strong chemicals in your hair.
● Dieting, or eating a poor diet.
To prevent hair loss, add sprouted, dried or powdered fenugreek seeds to coconut oil and massage the scalp.
Bacterial or fungal infections of the scalp can also cause loss of hair. However, if you promptly consult a skin specialist, these can usually be cured easily with the use of medicines or medicated shampoos.
49. Illness and Drugs
Illness can cause thinning of the hair shaft, loss of hair colour or hair loss. As the body is generally weakened, your hair tends to grow slowly during illness. However, during convalescence, if you are eating a very healthy diet and taking care of your health, hair often grows very fast.
If you have a very high fever, measles or anemia, you are susceptible to diffuse hair loss for up to two months after the illness.
50. How Does Age Affect Your Hair?
As with the rest of the body, the quality and thickness of the hair are best during one’s youth.
The rate of hair growth, sheen and lustre is greatest between the ages of fifteen and twenty-five, and the rate slows considerably after the age of fifty.
Greying may occur at various ages. It is usually influenced by hereditary factors, though again it may be affected by stress or illness.
Hair often tends to become more coarse and straight with age, especially after it greys.
For women, the hormonal imbalance during menopause and afterwards often leads to hair loss or at least a retardation in growth. The tendency to baldness in men also increases with age.
51. How Does Hair Removal Affect Hair?
There is a belief that threading, waxing, cutting or shaving leads to increased growth of hair. There is a corresponding belief that the hair which grows back is much more coarse than that which was removed.
Both of these beliefs are wrong. Hair is dead tissue. Repeated removal of hair will eventually lead to decreased growth. And the hair which grows back will be of a similar nature.
There is an Indian custom of shaving an infant's hair to encourage a thick new crop. This does not seem to have a scientific basis.
52. Hair Weaving
- Hair weaving is one of the techniques of hair replacement. It is a painless process where human hair is woven on to your hair.
2. The advantage of this technique is that it leads to a very natural look, provided colour matching is done carefully.
3. The disadvantage of this method of hair replacement is that as your hair is in a state of continual growth, the knotted hair needs tightening approximately every six weeks. This means a continual investment of time and money. It is also necessary to be extra careful when shampooing so as not to weaken the joints of hair. Moreover, the tension on your hair due to the weight of the attached hair can result in further loss of hair.
4. Cost of hair weaving depends on the size of the patch and hair used.
53. Hair Bonding
- In this method, a whole unit of hair is attached to your own hair to cover the bald patches. However, this strains the hair it is attached to. Therefore, frequent adjustment is necessary as in the case of hair weaving.
2. There is another method where a whole hairpiece is actually stitched on to the scalp. It is difficult to clean the scalp because the hairpiece can’t be removed. It may also cause irritation and even infection.
54. Hair Transplant
This is the most permanent method of hair replacement. It involves transferring hair from one part of the scalp to another through a surgical process.
The process is simple. Small plugs of skin, about 3 mm in diameter, are taken from the bald area and are replaced by similar plugs of hair skin from the area over the ears or the occipital region.
The transplanted hair falls out after a while but is replaced by new growth and a regular growth cycle is established. The procedure is called “ punch grafting” because it uses a cylindrical punch to remove the plugs and graft them on to another part. This technique, first used in the 1950s, has been undergoing constant improvement. Now it is possible to insert fewer hairs so that four to five or even one to two hairs can be transplanted to fill in spaces and give the area a more natural look.
Transplantation is however not suitable for every bald person. There has to be a sufficient amount of hair present and it must be dense enough to afford a donation of some of it.
55. Crimping and Ironing
Crimping is a mechanical process by which an artificial wave is given to straight hair. It lasts only until the next wash. It is done after blowdrying. The crimper has three kinds of blades: two add waves to straight hair, and the third makes wavy hair straight, which is called ironing. For both crimping and ironing, the process is the same.
Always apply the serum before going in for ironing or crimping as it coats and protects the hair from heat.
Procedure:
● Shampoo and drape hair. Do a proper blowdry.
● Fit balds properly on both sides of the crimper.
● Divide the hair into small sections and press each section for a while.
56. Perm
A perm is a colloquial term for a permanent wave given to straight hair by using chemicals.
As the name implies, a perm lasts a fairly long time, say three to four months, but its exact duration varies according to the individual hair growth rate and also the style.
The advantage of having a perm is that it adds volume and bounce to straight and scanty hair. The disadvantage is that it reduces the natural softness and lustre of the hair.
For better results, use rollers according to the required wave. To achieve tight curls, use small rollers; for big waves, use big rollers. Always take hair according to the width of the rollers.
Many people went to perm and dye their hair at the same time. It is advisable to give at least a week’s gap between the two, in order to give the hair some time to recover. But if you want to have both done together, you must ensure that your hairdresser is careful in selecting the chemicals. Also, perming should be done before dyeing as the harsh chemicals used for a perm would reduce the effectiveness of the dye.
57. Partial Perming
Perming only a section of a whole head of hair is called partial perming. Partial perming is used on:
● Those who have long hair on the top and crown, and very short, tapered sides and nape.
● Those who need volume and lift only in certain areas.
Though partial perming needs the same technique for wrapping as above, there are a few extra considerations:
● When you are wrapping the hair and reach the area that is to be left unpermed, go to the next larger rod size so that the curl pattern of the permed hair will blend into the unpermed hair.
● Take zigzag sections to avoid parting.
● After wrapping the area to be permed, place a coil of cotton around the wrapped rods as well as around the entire hairline.
● Before applying the waving lotion, apply a heavy, creamy conditioner to sections not to be permed, to protect this hair from the effects of the waving lotion (waving lotion softens and straightens unwrapped hair).
58. Perming for Men
Most men want hair to fall back and not on the forehead, some want added texture and fullness that only a perm can give. A perm can redirect a cowlick, help limp or unmanageable hair maintain a style more easily, and make sparse hair look fuller.
Perming techniques are basically the same for both and women. Partial perm techniques are the best for men as they want waves only for control.
59. Caring for Permed Hair
After a perm, you should not wash your hair for at least seventy-two hours.
If you have a perm, you need to take especially good care of your hair as it has undergone strain and is prone to damage. You should keep the following things in mind:
● Oil massage your hair regularly.
● Shampoos meant for chemically-treated hair should be used.
● Conditioning after every hair wash is a must.
● Serum should be used in wet hair after the final rinse for lustre.
● Use a wide-toothed comb to untangle your hair as this strains the hair the least.
60. Straightening
This is a chemical process to straighten curly hair. As it is never carried out on dry hair, hair should be shampooed and left moist.
The advantage of this process is that it makes your hair manageable and soft. However, as with all other chemical treatment of hair, it harms the quality of hair.
It is essential to ensure that the hairdresser carrying out the procedure is experienced and qualified. Once the chemical is applied, the hair should not be combed harshly as this leads to severe damage.
Straightening causes dryness, so afterwards you need to take extra care of your hair, make intensive use of protein conditioners and serum and have regular oil massages.
61. Hair Colouring
Hair colouring is a term that covers a wide range of options from colouring a lock of hair for a different look to colouring the whole head, either for a different look or to conceal greying.
Hair colouring may be done with a range of natural to chemical products.
Chemical dyes alter the structure of the hair and may damage it. They last for varying lengths of time, from so-called permanent dyes to ones that fade after a couple of washes. It is better to use chemical dyes with care. When using for the first time, perform a patch test to check if your skin is allergic to the dye.
There are also vegetable dyes which, unlike chemical dyes, do not alter the structure of the hair. There are non-toxic, as they are obtained from flowers or leaves of plants; so no skin test is necessary. Vegetable dyes fade after a month or so but a mild coating remains. Retouching is required periodically.
62. Highlighting
Highlighting is colouring or decolouring a lock of hair, to add excitement and variation to your hair. It is also good for people with grey hair as the yellowish colour after the bleach imparts it a chic look.
The addition of hydrogen peroxide to a bleach formula (a process known as oxidation) leads to decolourization.
The normal colours are any shade of brown, red or yellow. Nowadays, you can also highlight by dyeing one lock the desired colour, which can be as unusual as purple or blue.
Bleaching
- There are three basic types of hair lightening agents, which remove pigments from the hair. These are oil, cream and powder.
- Oil beaches: These are least damaging as they leave the hair in good condition, without excessive dryness.
- They are appropriate when only one or two levels of colour lift are desired. Oil bleach can be used as a single-application colour to achieve a moderate colour change of the entire head, or in weaving to achieve a very subtle colour change.
- Cream bleaches: These are easy to apply and do not run, drip, or dry out easily. The weak hydrogen peroxide and ammonia solution of cream bleaches are strong enough to do pastel blonding but gentle enough to be used on the scalp. They contain conditioning to give protection to the hair and scalp.
- They are best in white colour so that the colourist can monitor the lighting process without wiping the product off.
- Powder bleaches: Powder bleaches, like cream bleaches, are strong enough to do pastel blonding. However, powder bleach cannot be applied to the scalp because it does not contain oil and conditioners. These are used exclusively for off-the -scalp applications.
- Damage during bleaching is limited to the hair shaft, the hair in the follicle being unaffected. Conditioners of the cetrimide-type are recommended to repair any damage to the hair.
- Never use tongs on bleach hair. high heat can make the hair brittle and damage it.
63. Chemical Dyes
Chemical dyes may be of three kinds.
Permanent colours, as the name suggests, are chemical dyes that do not fade. However, the new growth at the roots has a be continually dyed. Retouching depends upon the growth rate of hair and the percentage of grey hair; it can be carried out once a month. Permanent colours contain ammonia and therefore may damage hair. Before colouring, a proper skin test is necessary to check for allergic or other reactions.
Semi-permanent or ammonia-free colours gradually wash out after six to eight shampoos. After that, the dye has to be reapplied. They also require retouching more frequently.
Temporary colours or shampoo colours last only until you shampoo your hair again. These are milder and cause the least damage.
64. Picking and Maintaining Hair Colour
When using hair colour, it is important to pick a shade that suits you, your complexion and is close to your natural hair colour.
There are certain basic principles which should be kept in mind when selecting hair colour:
● Rich tones of colour reflect more light and give hair a thinker's appearance.
● Highlights give fine hair extra texture.
● Highlights also break up the heaviness of very thick hair.
● The very light colour makes the hair appear thinner.
Never go for any other chemical job immediately after colouring, as it will take away the colour. If your hair is coloured or streaked, always rinse your hair thoroughly in chlorine-free water after swimming. Use a shampoo designed for coloured hair, followed by a separate conditioner.
65. Streaking
Streaking is a sophisticated and selective form of permanent colouring were randomly selected strands are coloured. This makes hair look dynamic and exciting and also add volume. But it requires expert timing and blending.
In streaking, thin strands of hair are placed on easi-meche. This protects the scalp from the chemical.
The highlights grow out naturally and need to be renewed only every three or four months. It’s the safest method of colouring as the chemical doesn't touch the scalp.
66. Henna
Henna is the most popular form of vegetable dye in India as it is more suitable for Asian hair than blonde hair.
How to use
Rich red tones: Add a few drops of acetic acid to the henna mixture. Mix one teaspoon of catechu in the henna for a dark red colour.
Brown: Mix henna with walnut juice. Add one teaspoon of eucalyptus oil for a darker colour.
Blue-black or henna reng: Mix with indigo. Add one teaspoon of eucalyptus oil to henna for darker hair.
Henna can also be used for highlighting. It gives auburn highlights to brown and chestnut hair, and red highlights to black hair.
Henna also has excellent conditioning properties, If forms a protective coating on the hair that prevents any alien chemical from penetrating into the hair cuticle. It also helps reduce split ends by healing the breakages. Thus it helps to make coarse hair smooth and gives it a distinctive shine.
67. Other Natural Dyes
Chamomile: This has natural lightening properties and works as a colour improver for blond hair.
Rosemary: Sprigs of rosemary give dark hair a rich glossy shine.
Rhubarb root: This brightens and lifts natural colour, Giving blonde hair golden highlights and chestnut highlights to dark hair.
Onion: To give your hair a natural reddish dye, boil onion peels in half a cup of water. Add a teaspoon of glycerine and apply the decoction to your hair. Wash off after thirty minutes.
Walnut: Walnut juice deepens the colour of dark brown hair.
68. Setting or Styling Aids
Setting aids contain a coating substance that gives your hair more body and enhances its manageability so that it holds a style better. The main ingredient in all such aids is the fixative polymer which holds the hair fibres together. The aids differ in the form in which the fixative is applied to hair. The fixative polymer in hairspray is delivered as droplets, whereas in a mousse it is in the form of foam.
There are two basic types of setting aids:
The first are those that are applied after shampooing on wet hair, including gels and mousses. Gels are applied for a wet look, while mousses. give bounce, shine and make the hair more manageable for blow-drying. Beer is also a good styling aid of this kind and was traditionally used for this purpose. If you use beer in the final rinse after shampooing, it gives a lot of bounce to dull and straight hair.
The second group of setting aids comprises those which are applied on dry hair after drying. The most important of this group is hairspray. This helps to keep the finished hairstyle unspoilt for a longer time.
69. Mouse
The primary function of a mousse is to add body and volume to hair, as well as hold and control a style. It is used as an important agent in the styling process.
There are certain basic principles you should keep in mind when using mousse. You should apply mousse at the roots if you want to give a lift to styles that require height. You should be careful about applying too much mousse at the ends as this will weigh hair down. How much mousse to use depends on your hair type and the style you want to achieve. For any style requiring either hold or height, use lots of mousses to make hair easier to mould.
70. How to Apply Mouse
To apply mousse, work from the top of your ears up to the crown, then run your hands from underneath your hair at the back, through to the front. This way, you ensure even coverage and end up with minimal mousse near your face, which is the area that requires it least.
It is unnecessary to apply mousse along the whole length of your hair. You should keep in mind that mousse expands when it is dispensed and adjust the amount you use according to your hair type and style. For dry, coarse hair, mousse can be used on the tips before hot curling for better control. If you have fine hair, be moderate when you apply mousse. For a smooth look, work the mousse from the roots to the ends. Brush through gently with a wide-toothed comb, then either allow your hair to dry naturally or blow-dry. To achieve a volumizing effect, work the mousse into the roots. Bend your head and blow-dry from the roots to the tips. To define the style, apply the mousse with fingers or a comb, and style with a hairbrush. To enhance curls is naturally curly or permed hair, work in the mousse and scrunch dry naturally or with a dryer.
71. Styling Gel
A styling gel works very much like a mousse. Its main purpose is to help the styling process by adding shape and definition to your style, as well as controlling and holding your hair in place. Gel also actually helps protects your hair against damage caused by styling and the styling process. It can be used on wet or dry hair for different effects.
The gel is applied and used in the same manner as mousse. It can be reactivated, by misting the hair with water and shaping it into style again.
72. Styling Gel Spray
A styling gel spray is very similar to a gel and achieves the same end. The only difference is that it is delivered in a spray form. This gives it all the advantages of a gel, combined with the ease of using a spray for precision hold where your hair needs it most. A styling gel spray can be used on wet or dry hair.
73. Hairsprays
Hairsprays contain fixative ingredients which are delivered in spray form and can be used in dry hair. Therefore, hairsprays are more flexible and easy to use than other styling products. Many conventional hairsprays contain fixative ingredients that can leave the hair feeling sticky. It is important to pick a hairspray that is not too sticky. When using hairspray, style your hair as you desire and then spray on.
74. Control Cream
Control creams or dressing creams are applied to the hair after setting and drying, but before dressing out. They are designed to replace the natural oils removed during shampooing and help preserve the style by preventing the entry of moisture into the hair shaft. They are antistatic agents and make the hair lustrous.
The creams may be water-in-oil emulsions but are more often the oil-in-water type, containing a very small proportion of water since they are applied to dry hair and must not spoil the set. The oil is usually mineral oil, especially paraffin oil, but could be vegetable oil as well.
75. Haircare in Summer
Summer means heat, pollution and the inevitable sweat. The pores of the skin try to relieve and cool the body by sweating. The scalp is no different. However, unlike the rest of the body where sweat evaporates easily, what makes sweat on the scalp more difficult to deal with is that it is harder for it to dry, as it is covered with hair.
Because of pollution and sweat, hair needs to be washed more frequently in summer. In order to ensure that your hair is not damaged by excessive washing, use a mild shampoo.
It is also important to ensure that your hairstyle is comfortable and keeps the neck free from hair. Long hair can be tied off the nape of the neck. However, it is important to leave your hair open for some time in order to let it dry out as excessive sweat and moisture can damage it. Alternatively, it is practical to go in for a short haircut as it allows hair to dry easily and there are no tendrils trailing on your neck.
It is also advisable to use henna as it removes extra oil and cools the scalp.
76. Haircare During the Monsoon
Hair requires more attention during the rainy season because of the additional humidity. Because of the additional moisture in the air, hair becomes oily and falls flat without any bounce. Usually, the texture of the hair becomes dull and lifeless. As the scalp sweats constantly, itchiness and scratching cause discomfort and hair loss. The seasonal hair loss does not require any treatment as the hair grows back again once the season is over.
Short hair is ideal for this season as the scalp gets enough breathing space and the hair dries easily. If your hair is long, you should tie it up properly after drying.
You should avoid using mousse, gels and conditioners as far as possible. Also, try not to have any chemical treatment done to your hair during these months. Henna is a good conditioner to remove excessive oil and moisture.
77. Haircare in Winter
As the weather is clod and less humid during winters, sweating is considerably reduced. Therefore, the hair becomes less greasy and dirty. It does not require shampooing that often, so avoid over-shampooing as this removes the vital natural oils.
As the weather is naturally dry, you should take care to ensure that your hair does not become too dry. To prevent dryness, oil massage once a week is recommended. You should also use conditioners more frequently to maintain moisture levels. To reduce split ends, you can use serum, which also works as a shine enhancer.
78. How to Select Hair Accessories
If you tie up your hair, it is important to use the right accessories which will not harm your hair. Always buy products that are of good quality so that inferior plastic or rubber does not harm your hair.
Some general guidelines:
● Use soft hair accessories that do not exert tension on hair while putting on and taking off.
● For a tighter hold on a ponytail, try a bungee band (an elastic with hooks on each end). Grab the hair with one hook, then wrap the elastic band around the hair tightly and clasp the first hook with the second hook.
● Don’t wear your ponytail too tight.
● A tight elastic band can cause breakage and damage to both the hair and scalp.
79. Serum
The serum is basically silicone oil, which contains dimethyl silicone. Its chemical structure enables it to become water-repellent.
After making a switch or a hairstyle, rub a few drops of serum between the palms of your hands and apply over the hair to smooth any flyaway ends.
Serum spray is specially designed for damaged hair (especially permed hair). When the hair is damaged, it becomes brittle, weak and breaks easily. The serum contains ingredients that penetrate and help strengthen the hair. It also conditions the outside of the hair to leave it looking shiny and healthy.
80. Setting Permed Hair
To keep curls tight after washing, pat your hair dry with a towel and scrunch hair wax into it. Make sure you apply it only on the hair shaft and not on the roots. Allow the hair to dry naturally. This should hold your hair in tight curls and give it bounce and movement.
For big and loose curls, roll more sections of hair on large diameter electric (common curlers) and take them off once they cool down. For big and tight curls, roll fewer sections of hair on small or medium diameter electric rollers.
81. While You Swim
If you swim regularly, use your fingers to comb a little conditioner through your dry hair before you get into the pool. This will help to keep it in good condition, even while swimming, and will also make it earlier to put your swimming cap on if you wear one!
If you go to the bench for the day, comb some intensive conditioner through dry hair, and if it is long, tie it back in a loose knot or bun. This will help protect your hair and leave it beautiful conditioned for the evening, once you have shampooed it out.
If you want your straight hair to look bouncy and lustrous, a final rinse with vinegar or lemon juice is all it takes. This will eliminate the need for a conditioner.
82. Greying
The greying of hair is normal with age. It is called senile greying. The cause is not known, but it is believed that melanocytes lose their function of producing the pigment melanin because of cellular failure. There is no treatment for senile greying except that some people use hair dyes to mask their grey hairs.
Premature greying is the greying of hairs before the age of thirty years. It may be hereditary or the result of illness, use of certain drugs, anemia, shock and poor diet. In many cases, greying is maximum at the top of the scalp, while in some it may be maximum at the frontal line or the sides of the scalp.
Treatment of greying
In the case of premature greying, studies have shown that the intake of calcium pantothenate can reverse the phenomenon. Depending on the number of grey hairs, the treatment may take two to five years.
Vitamin B complex is also known to influence hair colour.
83. Type of Wigs
Wigs can be made from human hair, synthetic hair (modacrylic), animal hair, or a blend of two or three types.
Test: To tell the difference between human hair and synthetic hair, cut a small piece of hair from the back of the wig. With a lighted match, burn this hair and observe the following:
- Human hair burns slowly and gives off a strong odour.
- Synthetic hair burns quickly and gives off little or no odour. Small, hard beads in the burnt ash of synthetic hair can be felt.
Human hair wigs: The quality of a wig depends largely on whether it is constructed by hand or by machine. Expensive, custom made wigs are hand-knotted into a fine mesh foundation. In cheaper wigs, hair is sewn by machine into a net cap in circular rows.
The quality of a wig also depends on the kind of hair it contains ( human or synthetic), and how it is fitted to the client’s, measurements.
Synthetic wigs and hairpieces: Synthetic hair closely resembles human hair in texture, resiliency, porosity, pliability, durability, sheen and feel. These fibres can retain curl well, are non-flammable, and do not oxidize and change colour in sunlight.
Synthetically-produced hair costs less than human hair and its supply is unlimited. Hair is woven onto a wig cap made of cotton, synthetic, or synthetic, cotton and reinforced elastic. No-cap wigs are also available, composed of rows of weft sewn to elastic bands. They are lighter and cooler to wear than other types of wigs.
Hairpieces are generally made with a synthetic base that does not shrink when shampooed. Synthetic hairpieces come in wiglets, demi-wigs, braids, chignons, cascades and falls.
Hair extensions: Hair extensions are permanent additions to hair that can make hair look longer, thick and voluminous. They can vary an existing hairstyle. Extensions can be made from either human or synthetic hair and can be affixed by gluing, fusing or braiding the additional hair.
Men’s wigs: To make their hair appear fuller, many men are using hair extensions. These hair extensions are interwoven or braid onto the existing hair, giving sparse areas the appearance of added thickness. Once added to the existing hair, the extensions are styled to complement the client’s hair type and facial features.
Some go for hairpieces with and adhesive on the base that sticks to the scalp.
Ordering wigs
Measurement of the head should be taken before you order wigs. When ordering a wig, you should take care to mention the following details:
● Measurement of your head.
● Hair shade: Give hair samples, hair that has been freshly shampooed, tinted or rinsed.
● Kind of wig: Made of natural hair or synthetic hair.
● Length of hair.
● Type of hair part and pattern.
Keeping wigs
Buy a Styrofoam block to mount the wig on the correct head size block and pin as follows:
● At the center of the forehead.
● At each side of the temple.
● At the center of the nape.
● At each corner of the nape.
Adjusting wigs
● If the wig is too tight, stretch it. Turn the wig inside out and wet its foundation with hot water. Stretch the wig carefully onto a larger size block and pin it securely. Then allow the wig to dry naturally.
● If the wig is too loose, sew tucks to improve the fit. Tuck horizontally to shorten the wig from front to nape. Vertical tucks are to remove width at the back of the wig from ear to ear.
● Sew tucks on the inside of the foundation if you adjust a ventilated or a hand-tied wig. The elastic band requires periodic adjustment or replacement because these bands stretch or deteriorate when exposed to body heat and cleaning fluids over a period of time.
Cleaning wigs
Human hair wigs: A human hair wig should be cleaned every two to four weeks, depending on how often it is worn, or before restyling, using a non-flammable liquid cleaner.
Procedure:
● Cover the clock with plastic to protect the canvas. Block the wig. Remove back-combing. Direct the hair off the hairline. Brush the hair to loosen dirt and hairspray.
● Take the wig off the block. Wear rubber gloves to protect your hands. Saturate the wig in 90 ml of non-inflammable liquid cleaner in a large glass or porcelain bowl. With the hair side down, dip the wig up and down until it is clean.
● Or swirl the wig around in the liquid cleaner. If necessary, clean the edges and inside the foundation with a cotton ball or toothbrush.
● Gently shake the wig to remove excess fluid. Place the wet wig immediately on the canvas block. Stretch the wig lightly and pin it securely to the block.
● When the wig is dry, set and style it.
Hand-tied wigs: since they have a more delicate structure than machine-made wigs and cost much more, hand-tied wigs should be cleaned on a block.
Procedure:
● Cover the canvas block with plastic to protect the canvas.
● Clean the edges and inside foundation with a cotton ball or toothbrush.
● Block the wig and saturate in a large glass or plastic bowl containing liquid cleaner.
● Soak the wig for three to four minutes.
● Comb the cleaning solution through the length of hair and entire wig with a wide bristled brush.
● Carefully towel blot and allow to dry naturally on the block for about half an hour.
● Give a conditioning treatment, if necessary.
● Set and style the wig.
Synthetic wigs: Synthetic wigs and hairpieces need not be cleaned as often as human hair wigs, as they are non-absorbent and do not attract dust and dirt. Clean and style synthetic wigs and hairpieces about every three months, depending on the amount of wear and styling. Use tepid or cool water to clean the wig; hot water takes the curl out of synthetic wigs. Do not comb or brush while wet.
Procedure:
● Cover the block with plastic to protect the canvas.
● Mount the wig on the block and brush it free of tangles and spray before cleaning.
● Fill a container with mild shampoo or a specially formulated cleaner. Use tepid or cold water.
● Remove the wig from the block. Swish the wig thoroughly the cleaning solution for a few minutes. Rinse thoroughly in cool water.
● Use a small brush or cotton to clean the mesh foundation.
● Squeeze out excess water and towel blot. (Do not wring or twist the wig).
● Pin the wig no the proper size block and let it dry naturally.
● Do not brush a synthetic wig when it is wet; this can take out the curl.
● Do not expose a synthetic wig to a hairdryer. The concentrated heat of a dryer can cause the synthetic hair strands to stick together and lose their curl.
● When the wig dries completely, brush out the hair and spray with conditioner to add lustre.
● To reduce drying time, dry the wig with a cool dryer using only the fan. Since most synthetic wigs are pre-styled, they require no further styling.
● To colour and dye, dampen the clean hair using a spray bottle.
● If unsure about which colour to use, strand test the colour rinse on the back of the wig.
● Spray hair with the colour rinse. Distribute it evenly with a downward motion, using a small brush and a wide-toothed comb.
● Apple setting lotion in the usual manner.
● Set dry and comb out the hair to the desired style.
Semi-permanent tints
Semi-permanent tints are referred to as six-week tints. They are self-penetrating and require no peroxide. They do not change the basic structure of the hair.
Semi-permanent tints can be applied to machine-made wigs.
Procedure:
● Mount the wig on the appropriate plastic-covered block.
● Remove all teasing, tangles and snarls.
● Clean the wig and comb the hair smooth.
● Remove the wig from the block and immerse it in a glass bowl full of hot water and semi-permanent tint solution.
● Leave it completely immersed for ten minutes.
● Remove it and rinse with cold water.
● Apply conditioner.
Permanent tints
Since all human hair wigs and hairpieces go through extensive processing, applying a permanent tint to this kind of hair can be very risky and will result in uneven colouring.
Hairpieces
You can create a variety of hairstyles with hairpieces, fashioning them for either daytime or evening wear. Hairpieces come in various forms, such as:
● Switches: These are long wefts of hair mounted with a loop at the end. They are constructed with one to two stems of hair. Better switches are constructed with three stems to provide greater flexibility in styling and braiding. They can be worked into the hair or braided to create special styling effects.
● Wiglets: These are hairpieces with a flat base, used in special areas of the head, They are used primarily to blend with one’s own hair in order to extend the range of hair in a particular section of the head. Wiglets can be worked into the top of the hair in curls or under the hair to give height and body. They can also be used to create special effects.
● Bandeau: This is a hairpiece that is sewn to a headband. The headband, which is replaceable and comes in different colours, serves as an excellent disguise for the hairline. The bandeau hairpieces are usually worn over the hair and dressed casually.
● Fall: This is a section of hair, machine wefted on a round base, running across the back of the head and available in various lengths. Falls have a thick, Plushy look. Shortfalls range from 37.5 to 50cm; and long falls from 45 to 60cm.
● Demi-fall or demi-wig: This is a large-base hairpiece designed to fit the shape of the head. The demi-fall or demi-wig generally ranges from 37.5 to 50 cm in length.
● Cascade: This is hairpieces on an oblong base that offers an endless variety of styling possibilities. The Cascades can be styled in curls, braids, a pageboy, or used as a filler with the client’s own hair.
● Braid: This is a switch the strands of which are woven, interlaced or entwined. Some are prepared with a thin wire inside so that they can be formed into various shapes. Wireless braids hang loose on the head.
● Chignon: This is a knot or coil of hair, created from synthetic hair, that is worn at the nape or crown of the head. A chignon works best when worn in combination with another hairpieces.
● Crown curls: These are a group of light curls worn on top of the head.
● Frosting curls: These are segments of frosted or blended hair pinned into natural hair to simulate frosted or streaked hair.
Safety precautions for wigs
● Take great care when combing or brushing wigs to avoid matting. When cleaning a wig or a hairpiece, never rub or wring out the fluid.
● When shaping (cutting) a wig or a hairpiece, exercise caution, for once the hair has been cut, it cannot grow back.
● When combing a freshly set wig, use a wide-toothed comb to gain greater control and to avoid damage to the wig’s foundation.
● When cleaning or working with a wet wig, always mount it on a block of the same head size as the wig to avoid stretching. Don’t lighten (bleach) a wig or a hairpiece.
● Take accurate measurements of your head to ensure a comfortable and secure fit.
● Condition wigs as often as necessary to prevent dry or brittle hair.
84. Bright Ideas for Great-Looking Hair
- Give long hair a look without cutting it. Ask your stylist about pointing, a new scissoring technique that takes the weight out of ends without lopping off the length your stylist cuts tiny triangles into the ends instead of leaving them blunt.
- If you’re changed the colour of your hair, start using colour-enhancing shampoos, instead of regular shampoos, to avoid frequent touch-ups. By using colour enhancing shampoos, the frequency of colouring jobs can be halved. The colour enhancing shampoos that you select should be of a hue close to your hair colour.
- If none of the styles works in your curly hair, change your entire look without a snip of the scissors. The idea is to get your hair straightened by using a mild gel made up of maida. This straightening gel is safe and remote from harsh chemicals. It restores shine and provides the hair with a soft and sleek look, as the hair serum in the gel smooths the hair cuticle and enhances shine. But make sure you get it done by a professional.
